My sincere apologies for not getting back to you sooner. Apparently the moderation settings on my site isn’t working properly.

I use a couple of different USB-to-Serial devices. Get the ones based on the PL-2303 chipset as it’s cross-platform and very easy to install. Here’s a link to the one I purchased on Amazon.com:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007T27H8

I’m not sure if it works with Windows 8 since I don’t have have a machine capable of running that OS. I DO know that it works on Windows XP and the latest version of Mac OS X just fine.

The Keyspan USB-to-Serial adapters are by far the best. They’re very easy to configure. You’ll pay a bit more, but the price is worth the frustration … unless you’re up for a good challenge. Here’s a link to the keyspan, again off of amazon.com:

http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-USA-19HS-Hi-Speed-supports/dp/B0000VYJRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1368708074&sr=1-1&keywords=keyspan+usb+serial+adapter

I was actually able to successfully get the Keyspan to work using PlayOnMac (essentially a WINE emulator) to run a piece of software that could only run in Windows. I wasn’t so fortunate with the PL-2303 chipset.

-Andre

Been a while! I actually just “re-stumbled” upon your blog here while doing a search for the 12-pin Jones power connector. The communicator came with one, but without the hood. A little difficult troubleshooting a loose connection there when she’s plugged into AC!!!

I ended up replacing all of the “black beauties” in the rig 100%, and completely rebuilt the PS. The caps were such a mess with the wax leaking out of the paper, I just knew they had to go. It’s actually been a while since I did that, but every now and then I turn the rig on just to make sure things still work!

Once I find the Jones plug, the only thing left for me to do is locate a small 120V to 12V transformer for the amplifier. I need that to run a relay which switches the amp in & out of the circuit. This amp was a little different than some of the other ones, and was also modified a bit. The regulator tubes have been converted to a diode string, most likely to cut down on some of the heat!

Hope you haven’t stopped working on your setup there since 6 is about to reopen for the summer. I’m hoping to locate a 50.400Mc crystal soon!

Will look for you on the airwaves on 6M AM…
Larry
N1MIW

I’m not quite sure I understand what you are trying to build, so I’ll try to address your post as best I can.

Let’s start with the USB-to-Serial interface. Back in the day, hams as well as other computer hobbyists could build cables for their computers fairly easily. We still can build some of the cables today, but the USB-to-Serial interface is quite tricky with the newer computer. Why? Well, because the newer computers don’t have USB ports that put out enough power for the serial end of the adaptor, which, to my understanding, drivers are required. The serial part of the interface actually uses a chip. KeySpan USB-to-Serial adaptors are probably the easiest ones to configure and set up. The cable can be had for AS little as $30. Yes, it is a little expensive for a cable, but remember, it doesn’t take long to set up and it does use a chip.

There are other ones out there that work well on the Mac, or even Windows for that matter. The Prolific USB-to-Serial adapter is a good choice. It runs well on Windows, Mac OS X, and even has drivers for Linux. I’ve purchased a couple of these off of Amazon.com for around $10, NOT including shipping. It’s still a good deal, however.

Now onto the “interface.” The problem with “sound card modems,” as I like to call them, is that you have to connect your computer with your radio using the sound card. Monitoring the signal is pretty simple: Just run an audio cable from the headphone jack or speaker out jack of your rig into the line in or microphone input on your computer. Getting the signal generated by the sound card of your computer to the radio, however, is a different story. That’s where interfaces like the Rigblaster Nomic or SingnaLink USB come into play. What these devices do is make it possible for you to combine the output of your sound card AND the commands that are sent through your Serial-to-USB adapter to be sent through ONE cable that goes to your rig’s microphone input.

Now, I’m not sure about the SignaLink USB product, but I DO know that the RigBlaster Nomic WAS built by a ham. So, it certainly IS possible to build one on your own. There is nothing proprietary there. The problem is finding the schematics to build such a device.

I thought I saw an article on this in a recent issue of QST, but for the life of me, I can’t remember which edition it was. If I find it, I’ll let you know.

I’m not sure if I answered your question or not, but hopefully this sheds some light on the topic. As for FLDigi: Hopefully enough people will notice the lack of documentation and start an unofficial wiki, or the developers will wise up and do the same.

73 de Andre
KC0MMY

ADDENDUM 03-30-2012:
Concerning the USB-to-Serial adapters: The other reason why they use a chip and drivers is so that the OS can actually find and actually make use of it as a serial port. The Rigblaster Nomic (and possibly the SignaLink USB) DOES come with a disc, but they just have some programs on it that you can use to play around with the various digital modes. I don’t recall as to whether or not the disc has “drivers” on it.

Cordially,

Don Righello
W6PJJ

Thanks for the question! It’s okay to use a regular antenna as opposed to a dummy load, so long as your SWR is good. However, when using a regular antenna to make this adjustment in power, you should do the following:

1). Pick an open/clear SIMPLEX frequency to do your adjustments on. I use 146.56 on 2 meters. You are activating your transmitter, so you would be transmitting a signal. DON’T do this on a repeater. You’d be tying it up unnecessarily.

2). When keying the mic and making the adjustments, throw your call out and say “testing” so that way you are not seen as an “unidentifiable signal.” You’d also be staying within the FCC rules. I actually do this even when I’m using a dummy load as I may have forgotten to flip the switch from antenna to dummy load. It’s also possible that someone could hear your signal, even while using a dummy load.

73 de Andre
KC0MMY

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fyngyrz/6773021173/